Do This For The Best Quebec City Escape
Québec City enchants one and all with its distinct charms and natural beauty, making it one of the most visited places in Canada. Overlooking the St Lawrence River with its picturesque streets, charming Old Town, grand architecture, historic landmarks, impressive culinary scene and fabulous French flair, North America’s oldest French-speaking city makes an alluring getaway.
In the colder months there are plenty of entertaining activities. Old Québec is transformed into a real Christmas village straight out of a Dickens's novel beginning the end of November. Visitors love the famous German Christmas Market with its light displays and wooden kiosks. Many come for the fantastic festivities at Grande Allée, Québec City's lively New Year celebration.
The fun filled Winter Carnival taking place February 7-16 in 2025, includes the fantastical Ice Palace of Bonhomme, snow sledding runs, ice canoeing races on the St. Lawrence and ice skating. Summer has its own panoply of delights including Canada’s largest outdoor music event – the very cool Festival d'été. For 11 days in July various venues host performances featuring star headliners along with food, fun and wine aplenty. And it’s a blast!
Iconic Château Frontenac
Perched on a cliff-top with magnificent views of the St. Lawrence River, the iconic Château Frontenac soars majestically over Québec City and is its signature landmark. This grand hotel in the Upper Town looks like a magical castle straight out of a fairy tale with its eye- catching exterior, striking turrets and winding hallways. Since opening in1893, its prestigious guest list includes Queen Elizabeth II, Alfred Hitchcock, Celine Dion, Paul McCartney, Sting, Leonardo DiCaprio, Winston Churchill, Steven Spielberg and Angelina Jolie. Be sure to drop by the spectacular structure, visit the lobby and savor the ambiance while sipping a cocktail at popular 1608 Bar or dining in one of their acclaimed eateries.
Terrasse Dufferin
Nearby, Terrasse Dufferin, the scenic boardwalk high above the waterway is a great place for a stroll with plenty of benches to sit down and take in the sweeping views. In summer you’ll see street performers and musicians; in winter there’s a toboggan run. Here, you can also take the funicular or the stairs from the Upper Town bustling with shops and restaurants to the more atmospheric, charming Old Lower Town.
Gems of the Lower Town
Old Quebec’s Lower Town enchants with its cobblestone streets, European architecture and historic attractions. Cicérone Tours provides excellent private walking tours with top guides so you get a truly authentic experience of this UNESCO designated World Heritage Site. My guide, a Québécois, has relatives who are direct descendants of the first French settlers in Quebec. He provided interesting and engaging details about the city’s founding including the culture and strong sense of pride about the local heritage, had entertaining stories – some about his ancestors - and came dressed in period costume to boot.
I explored The Lower Town, the original neighborhood that sprang up around the city’s harbor with shops and houses and the oldest stone church in North America on the ancient streets around Place Royale. This square, a former fur trading post, is the place where Samuel de Champlain founded the City of Québec in 1608.
Rue du Petit-Champlain is one of Quebec City’s most beautiful streets with its stunning architecture, boutiques, art galleries, atmospheric restaurants and decidedly French village aesthetic. Another gem - Rue du Cul-de-Sac, known as Umbrella Alley delights with its rounded buildings, outdoor cafes and famous umbrella adornments in the summer. It’s not unusual to fall in love with every street in this captivating old town. Did I mention that Quebec City is very romantic? Don’s miss a scenic boat ride on the St Lawrence River.
Creative Culinary Scene
In a place with so many superb restaurants helmed by innovative chefs crafting creative cuisine from the best seasonal and local ingredients, a few of my favorites include:
Chez Rioux & Pettigrew in the Lower Town’s Old Port features a star bartender who mixes up his own fabulous cocktails to start the evening while guests savor the vintage décor. Then Culinary Director Dominic Jacquesn serves up perfectly prepared and seasoned delectables inspired by the region’s roots and flavors. These include Fish Ceviche with Nordic shrimp, lemongrass mayonnaise, cranberry relish and elderberry liqueur and a to die for Cavatelli with mushrooms.
Just down the street, Légende takes you on a gastronomic journey reflecting the region’s culinary history from Canada’s Indigenous people to the present using produce solely grown in the province. Master Chef/co-owner Elliot Beaudoin does magic with dishes like Grilled brocolettes with asparagus, basil broth, aigrelette sauce and Avonlea cheese, luscious scallops and shrimp ceviche and exquisite spiced bavette steak.
Bello, in the heart of Old Quebec City, delivers Italian fare at its best with a range of products imported from Italy. Relish tastiest home made pasta, risotto, seafood, locally sourced meat, cheese, their famous pizza cooked in a wood-fired oven and amazing tiramisu in this trendy eatery with scenic terrace.
Stay In Style
The Auberge Saint-Antoine, a Relais & Chateaux member situated in the heart of the Old Port district, is a perfect synthesis of history and style. The boutique hotel, comprised of three centuries old buildings joined together is also somewhat of a museum, displaying artifacts going back to 1600 that were discovered during an excavation for a parking lot.
An inviting lobby with striped cushions, comfy couches and splashes of red makes a cozy hangout any time of the day or night. Each one of the 95 rooms is different, with its own distinct antiques and local designer accents. Many have original hardwood floors and wood beams, done in soothing neutral hues with terraces overlooking the St. Lawrence River. The huge Panoramic & Spa Suite on the top floor has a dazzling 600 square foot river view terrace.
Chez Muffy, the hotel’s atmospheric restaurant with striking stone walls, makes a perfect spot for a romantic dinner. Guests enjoy gastronomic cuisine using ingredients grown on its farm located on the Île d’Orléans. The hotel is planning an expansion to convert the adjacent newly acquired 18th century Union Bank Heritage building to 25 more rooms and suites, some with their own hammams, a spa with a thermal circuit and swimming pool as well as a rooftop bar and restaurant. I can’t wait to return.
A Day In Île d’Orléans
Heading out to the beautiful countryside with Conciergerie du Terroir co-owner Dany Labrecque, was a highlight of my visit. Dany, a former hotel concierge who is personable, entertaining and knows the very best of everything, designs customized tours to Île d’Orléans, the idyllic island just a 20 minute drive from the city.
You can go wine tasting, strawberry picking, and more. Taking in the stunning landscape we stopped to admire the majestic 272 feet high Montmorency Falls. Next, a visit to Cassis Monna & Fils vineyard run by sisters, with a wine cellar and gourmet boutique featuring products with blackcurrant liqueur, along with a restaurant and terrace. Onto La Maison de Thé, an eclectic, enchanting teahouse filled with various antiques in different salons that make cozy spots to savor the fragrant teas culled from their herbal garden along with yummy homemade pastries.
Strøm Nordic Spa
Pamper yourself and spend a day at acclaimed Strøm Nordic Spa, on the banks of the St. Lawrence, the newest location from the brand and just a 10 –minute drive from the city. This serene oasis is a healing wonderland set amid nature’s beauty. Rejuvenate with thermal pools, outdoor whirlpools, Nordic Baths, Finnish saunas, waterfalls, an infinity swimming pool, a flotation bath, indoor and outdoor relaxation areas with fireplaces and massages.
Bring a book, come alone or with a friend, and enjoy delicious cuisine using the freshest ingredients at their The Nord Restaurant, before you leave paradise.